Milan and Florence serve up the latest in Italian ready-to-wear, but Rome, Italy’s fashion capital during its dolce vita heyday in the 50s and 60s, has its own distinct style, one that manages to be both timeless and timely. “Roman fashion is very personal and not global,” says Barbara Lessona, founder and owner of Countess Concierge, a custom travel and personal shopping service based in Rome. Lessona, daughter of an American journalist and Italian count, has lived all her life in the Eternal City, and knows its special ateliers, artisans and tailors, which she incorporates into individual shopping itineraries for visitors to her native city. We asked Barbara to share her tips for dressing like a Roman since they do it so well, and for sharing some (she has many more secret spots) of her preferred shopping addresses for both women and men. Here are her recommendations.
1. Keep it local. “Department stores are not a habit at all here,” says Lessona. “Romans remain customers of small boutiques or ateliers.”
2. In an era of global brands, the city’s artisans are still very important. “Romans seek out the artisans who follow their own tastes rather than trends and create unique items instead of brand collections. Dressing in Rome is not just about the fashion of the moment, but having those special touches in a wardrobe, those pieces that last a lifetime and represent the best of Italian artisanal work.”
3. Word of mouth is key for finding the “off-the-beaten-path addresses, the ones making items that are classic and special with a touch of the unexpected.”
4. When in Rome…wear a pair of killer sunglasses. “The hot ones to own now are from L.G.R, the cool brand created by Luca Gnecchi Ruscone.” (Prince William and Daniel Craig wear his specs, which he also makes for women).
5. Roman men don’t wear shorts in the city, no matter how hot it gets. “This is one way to recognize a real Roman,” says Lessons.
6. Sneakers may rule in the US, but in Rome it’s more about a good pair of shoes. And they’re usually handcrafted (see recommendations below).
7. Where Roman women shop and what they buy.
Footwear: Shoes and boots from Roberto Spinelli, a favorite of the Roman aristocracy; handcrafted sandals from Preludio; beautiful artisan-made shoes and sandals from Herzel de Bach. For a wide selection of footwear with good prices, there’s Barrilà Boutique near the Piazza del Popolo.
Bags: Saddler’s Union has been a coveted label since the 50s with names like Audrey Hepburn and Gianni Agnelli buying the brand’s handmade leather goods. Their bucket bag design is iconic and wallets are must haves. Visit the VBH showroom on the Via di San Giacomo for posh handcrafted handbags, often in exotic skins, and evening bags that red-carpet regulars wear. (For information and appointments: contact@vbh-luxury.com.) Bizan
Clothing and accessories: Along the Via dell’ Oca you’ll find shops like Artisanal Cornucopia, which offers high-style accessories and decorative items, with many emerging artisans and designers; the Cristina Bomba atelier, where you can shop for clean, modern clothes executed in fine fabric, knitwear and accessories, and order bespoke tailoring; and Laura Urbinati, a resource for chic, contemporary ready-to-wear. Near the Spanish Steps Barbara Gregori has long been a favorite of Rome’s smart set seeking pieces from a curated collection with both new and established Italian labels. Nia Roma features select Italian and international brands with two stores on the Via Vittoria (#48 and #30/31), where the collections include stylish, modern classics and pieces with a contemporary edge. Elsewhere in Rome, Aspesi (Via del Babuino) is a go-to for quality raincoats and Puntopelle (Via Margutta) is a popular choice for custom leather jackets. Eternal City chicsters shop Albicocca (Via Archimede) for unique accessories and customized items.
Jewelry: Roman women are into jewelry and at a minimum rely on such basics as circle, hoop or drop earrings and pendants with stones for everyday wear. But they also covet the original, statement-making piece for both day and evening. “Rome has developed many highly creative jewelry designers in recent years, producing everything from haute costume to fine jewelry in gold and bronze,” says Lessona. A few of her favorite luxury ateliers: Ludovica Andreoni, whose exquisite handmade, customized pieces are jet-set favorites (check out the bold cuffs and inventive ring designs.) “Ludovica can personalize anything you want,” says Lessona. Lucia Odescalchi, a Roman princess and former Valentino model, designs striking, modern pieces (worn by another princess, Caroline of Monaco and celebrities). “Everything in her collection is unique. It is difficult to leave without buying something,” says Lessona.
Delfina Delettrez, a member of the Fendi clan, is known for her fresh and innovative designs often referencing natural motifs. Fabio Salini, who counts Queen Rania of Jordan as a client, wins kudos for his bold combos in fine jewelry, like pairing precious stones with copper, ebony and leather. Head to the Via Margutta for Alex Carelli’s dazzling contemporary pieces made with precious and semi-precious stones and unusual materials like iron, as well as for her much sought-after jeweled and feathered bags.
Hats: (Particularly summer hats) from Antica Manifattura Cappelli, where you can find both handmade items and selections from top Italian and international brands.
8. When they do shop international labels, Roman women tend to invest in items that never go out of style, like “Bottega Veneta and Chanel bags and ballerina shoes, classic Gucci moccasins, Prada black trousers, Loro Piana cardigans and turtlenecks, Andre Laug double-face cashmere coats and Capri dresses, and Giuseppe Zanotti evening sandals.” says Lessona.
9. Where Roman men shop and what they buy:
Clothes: Battistoni, which began as a store selling finely made shirts on the Via Condotti after WWII, evolved into a renowned atelier famous for its bespoke and made-to-measure suits, drawing business titans, monarchs and celebrities like Marlon Brando and Richard Burton for the beautifully crafted clothes. The setting is amazing, too, with works by renowned artists, many friends of the founder, like Picasso, Modigliani and Cocteau. FG Albertelli Roma offers exquisite handmade tailoring for shirts and suits—their unstructured wrinkle-resistant jackets and Storm System silk and wool coats are in the closets of Rome’s most stylish men. Sergio Nesci, where Frank Sinatra was a customer, offers tailor-made suits in the finest fabrics along with shirts, sporty trousers, knitwear, cashmere scarves and dressing gowns. For custom leather jackets Puntopelle is a good option and Schostal, which dates from 1870, is a favorite for cotton shirts, cardigans, linen handkerchiefs and underwear.
Outerwear: Apsesi for raincoats; a Husky jacket for a more casual look; LodenTal, founded by Andrea Provvidenza, for loden coats in a range of colors.
Shoes and socks: Laudadio for handcrafted or top brand shoes “especially loafers with tassels,” says Lessona. Other select spots for handcrafted shoes are Brugnoli and Battistoni. For the hometown favorite—cardinal red socks—go to Gammarelli, a store that has been tailor to generations of popes and specializes in ecclesiastical garments. “Roman men wear them with beige chinos and Cordovan moccasins,” says Lessona.
10. Style icons, men: “Gianni Agnelli is still the ultimate style icon,” says Lessona. “Of this generation Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (chairman of Alitalia and former chairman of Fiat); Lapo Elkann (the Fiat heir and entrepreneur); Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, founder of L.G.R; and wine expert Gelasio Gaetani D’Aragona Lovatelli are top influencers.” Style icons, women: The glamorous jewelry designers Ludovica Andreoni and Lucia Odescalchi; Gabriella Moncada di Paternò; Andre Laug’s Laura della Croce di Dojola; and Elif Sallorenzo, founder of Artisanal Cornucopia.
11. Executive business attire. Depending on budget, for women it’s often suits from Prada, Armani or Max Mara and dresses from Prada. For men, frequently suits from Battistoni, Loro Piana and Armani.
12. In Rome custom pieces don’t have to break the bank. “La sarta (seamstress) and il pellaio (leather artisan) are very much in the Roman tradition and have a range of prices, so you can create your own style, customizing existing designs or commissioning a new piece,” says Lessona.
13. With retro fashion Romans will often seek out the original and have it updated. Since the skills of the city’s tailors are legendary, it’s common for Romans to shop their closets or flea markets to sync with the latest yesteryear revival. “Fashion is now back to the 1980s,” says Lessona. ”Many Roman women will have pieces from this period to take to the tailor, and if not, they might shop a vintage boutique or high-end flea market to get the look.”
14. For vintage shopping: The place for vintage lovers to be on Sundays is Il Mercatino del Borghetto Flaminio/Garage Sale Rigattieri per Hobby that takes place in the Piazza della Marina, not far from the Piazza del Popolo.
15. Outlet shopping: Since sales are less frequent in Rome than in the US, locals often head to outlets for bargains. The outlet for the popular Fausto Santini, known for modern classic and architecturally-inspired shoes and bags, is on Via Cavour 106. Gente Roma with men’s and women’s clothing and accessories from top designers like Gucci, Prada and Alexander McQueen, has an outlet at Via Cola di Rienzo 26. The outlet for Nia Roma, know for stylish women’s clothing, is at Via Mario De’Fiori 40/B. Set aside a day to visit the Castel Romano Designer Outlet (about 25 kilometers from Rome); shuttle buses leave from the train station). Here you’ll find such Italian names as Salvatore Ferragamo, Loro Piana, La Perla, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Boggi Milano, along with many other brands.